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Post by shayneh2006 on Mar 24, 2014 12:41:30 GMT 10
On Sunday, I went to a Flea market to too far from home, looking for anything really (well particully a used dough hook for my Kenwood mixer) and came across an old guy selling a lot of used kitchen gear.
Going through a box full of cutlery, picked out three rather cheap buys. 
Victornox Chefs knife Victornox paring knife (around 8 bux new) Made in Japan mini cleaver
The Victornox Chefs knife was the score, but she had been abused by some ignorant person. The tip has been rounded off and the is a few minor knicks along the cutting edge.
What I wanna know, Is the best way to bring it back like new....
Shayne |
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Post by bill44 on Mar 25, 2014 6:49:37 GMT 10
A series of stones from coarse down to reasonably fine without getting ridiculous, it's ss not carbon steel, plus quite a few hours of elbow grease. Depends on how good you want the edge. I've had one of those for years and once you have a good edge it won't need stoning for quite a while if you steel it regularly with a good steel. Some of the cheap steels are far too coarse and are little better than rubbing on a brick.
The steel I use feels smooth but does a magnificent job, it's over 60 years old and was my Mothers from when she owned a butchers shop.
BTW to get your tip back I'd do most of the grinding off the back of the blade and sacrifice about 10mm of length. It all depends on how much work you want to do, they're $65.00 new.
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Post by smokey on Mar 25, 2014 14:48:36 GMT 10
A series of stones from coarse down to reasonably fine without getting ridiculous, it's ss not carbon steel, plus quite a few hours of elbow grease. Depends on how good you want the edge. I've had one of those for years and once you have a good edge it won't need stoning for quite a while if you steel it regularly with a good steel. Some of the cheap steels are far too coarse and are little better than rubbing on a brick. The steel I use feels smooth but does a magnificent job, it's over 60 years old and was my Mothers from when she owned a butchers shop. BTW to get your tip back I'd do most of the grinding off the back of the blade and sacrifice about 10mm of length. It all depends on how much work you want to do, they're $65.00 new. Spot on Bill, Shayne is a chippy so will be able to stone it and I reiterate the making a new point via stock removal from the back. Point blade upwards when grinding for heat deflection like with a chissle and quench often. You can stock remove right along the back so it looks right. Give the scale a sand and some lemon oil or pale boiled linseed oil. |
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Post by shayneh2006 on Mar 25, 2014 18:43:00 GMT 10
Great advice guys.
BTW to get your tip back I'd do most of the grinding off the back of the blade and sacrifice about 10mm of length. This had me thinkin for a bit and then it hit me.
The following pic is what I think your advices were towards. 
Thanks for the replies fellas 
Shayne
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Post by smokey on Mar 25, 2014 20:05:47 GMT 10
Yes mate, Even take that ark further back so the knife just looks right,. Its a do and see thing once you have it on the grinder.
Cast your eye often over it as you go. Ive got one of those sanding belt attachments on my A&A that does a good job.
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Post by bill44 on Mar 26, 2014 8:44:10 GMT 10
Yep that's the way to go Shayne.
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Post by shayneh2006 on Mar 27, 2014 16:03:09 GMT 10
Cheers Mick and Bill. The repair is complete and I am pretty happy with how it came up.  Thanks for the advice Shayne |
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Post by bill44 on Mar 27, 2014 16:28:03 GMT 10
You'd have to put it up against an original to notice the difference.
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Post by shayneh2006 on Mar 27, 2014 16:36:54 GMT 10
Yes Bill.
In the earlier pic (with the blue dotted lines), my grinding went beyond those limits.
Plenty of metal was taken away that's for sure.
Shayne |
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